Are you dreaming of watching your clothing line make its way down the runway? Or perhaps it’s interior textiles that have snatched your heart away. Whatever your sewing passion, turning it into a brand is an exciting time full of lots of new lessons to learn – and we’re here for it!
We get lots of emails and DMs from budding designers launching their own businesses, and we’re always happy to help source fabrics for their collections. With low minimum order quantities (MOQs) and plenty of knowledge, we like to think we’re a fabric company that’s very start-up friendly.
But, we’re always tempted to step beyond the world of sustainable fabrics and eco-friendly haberdashery and offer some more guidance on product development and production.
Fun fact: I was a product developer and production manager for fashion and accessories brands for 12 years before setting up Good Fabric shop (take a peek at my LinkedIn for more info). I have a whole wealth of manufacturing and product development knowledge ready to share – and now I am sharing it!
So, without further ado, here are 7 questions every designer should ask their potential factory before kickstarting product development or production.
1. Ethics: Ask for a Sedex SMETA Report
Factories producing textile products don’t have the best reputation in the world. When starting a brand, it’s important to consider the morality of different suppliers and take a peek behind closed doors. But, how can you do this without taking the (often) long trip to visit the site in person?
A great solution is the work with reputable third-party auditors. Using globally recognised accreditations and benchmarks, you can separate ethically ambiguous factories from those that truly care about employee wellbeing.
We recommend asking the factory if they have a Sedex SMETA report (Sedex Members Ethical Trade Audit) audit acquired in the last year. This is an ethical trade audit carried out to determine how a factory is run and identify issues such as:
- Working hours of employees
- Child labour
- Employee wages
- On-site safety and hygiene
This is a super in-depth audit that can be upwards of 80 pages long, so it will contain everything you need to know. It’s also well-recognised in the ethical manufacturing industry, helping you choose partners with a good conscience.
2. Clients: Ask Who Else They Supply
Want to get a feel for the factory’s quality? Check out the products of their existing clients. This is a fantastic way to learn more about the factory’s reputation and whether their standards meet your own, giving you plenty of insight into whether it’s the right manufacturer for your line.
It’s incredibly rare for a factory to refuse to let you know who else they work for (though it can happen). Once you’ve got their client list, head to the brand websites to learn more about their supply chain, values, and prices. If you can, try to get your hands on their products IRL, too, so that you can see the stitching and attention to detail up close.
If a factory does turn down your request to know who their clients are without a valid reason, they might as well be waving a big red flag.
3. MOQ: Ask How Much You Have to Order
Getting clear on the details of minimum order quantities is essential. Different factories can measure MOQs using different units – including total units, units per colour, and units per size – and if you’re not 100% certain of these, your communication can get really messy, really fast.
Ask about their MOQs and make sure you get specific information about units.
There’s also nearly always room to negotiate on MOQs as these figures are rarely set in stone. Remember, the factory wants your business! You might be able to get your MOQ reduced, even if you have to pay a small surcharge or higher price per unit. This is all about finding the balance that benefits you both.
4. Timings: Ask How Long Your Orders Will Take
Lead times refer to how long it’ll take to receive your order after placing it. When choosing a factory, you need to consider both:
- Sample lead time – how long it takes to receive your development samples or prototypes
- Production lead time – how long it’ll take produce your main production order
Make sure you have a clear understanding of who’s in charge of purchasing raw materials and getting them to the manufacturer. If you’re the one handling the sourcing, don’t forget to factor that into your lead time. But if your supplier is taking care of the materials, double-check that their quoted lead time includes the time it takes to get those materials. It’s all about keeping things clear!
5. Costs: Ask About Pricing
Do your factory choices align with your budget? Get this question out of the way early to rule out factories that are too expensive or too cheap (a big red flag!).
There are two costs you’re going to want to ask about; development costs and production costs.
Your development costs will include the rates of samples and can be charged as a flat fee or an increase of the cost price (like 1.5x higher, for example). Most designers need a few rounds of development to nail their designs, so factor this into your overall budget.
Your production cost is calculated per unit based on an agreed order quantity. If your manufacturer handles purchasing all raw materials, this is known as a Fully Factored cost. Since the factory assumes the financial risk of buying the materials, Fully Factored pricing tends to be more expensive. On the other hand, if you supply all the raw materials, the quoted price is referred to as CMT (cut-make-trim). Both Fully Factored and CMT costing methods are common in the industry, each with its own pros and cons. There’s no right or wrong choice—just pick what works best for your business.
6. Shipping: Ask What You’ll Pay For Delivery
There are a fair few questions around shipping that you’ll need to clarify. These include:
- Who’s in charge of shipping (e.g. the factory, you, or a third party?)
- How much will it cost to ship from A to B?
- How long will deliveries take?
Some factories may leave shipping up to you, in which case the quote provided will be labeled as EXW (ex-works). On the other hand, some brands prefer the factory to handle all deliveries. The choice ultimately depends on your budget, skills, and available manpower for managing shipping. If you do manage your shipping, we highly recommend Transglobal Express (not affiliated or sponsored – just an honest opinion from the Good Fabric team).
7. Visiting: Ask If You Can Tour the Factory
Last but certainly not least, ask if you can visit the factory. While it’s not always easy, especially with many factories located overseas, visiting in person is a fantastic way to ensure you’ve chosen the right supplier
During a visit, you’ll be walked through the site to see the process from start to finish. This includes where they store raw materials, the workstations and packing stations, and where they carry out quality control. Ask to see the wellbeing facilities, too, like where the employees take breaks or eat their lunch. These little details can tell you a lot about how a factory treats its team.
Even if you can’t get over to the factory any time soon, it’s good to ask for future reference. It’s also a green flag if they say yes – a factory that’s open to visits is less likely to have anything to hide.
Follow Your Gut and Remember Your Values
Factories are rarely perfect. Having said that, it is possible to find a good supplier that delivers quality products and treats their staff with respect. These diamonds do exist, you just have to know where to look for them.
Armed with the information here and your own moral compass, you should now have everything you need to hunt down the ideal factory to bring your designs to life.
Now, what’s next? If you haven’t already, be sure to check out our advice on Sourcing Sustainable Fabric for your up-and-coming brand. If you have any questions about our sustainable fabrics or are looking for more product development advice, feel free to get in touch with. When it comes to your sewing start-up goals, we’re always happy to help.
